DAVE COATSWORTH - As many of you know, my collecting focus for the last several years has been private label watches and, specifically, those made by the Illinois Watch Company. A 'private label' is, simply put, a watch (or clock) that has the name of the retailer or distributor on the dial and/or movement instead of that of the manufacturer. (As with any simple statement like this, there are exceptions and variations which we will discuss further as we encounter examples.)
One facet of collecting private labels that is particularly enjoyable is researching the firm or individual for whom the private label watch or clock was produced. This research quite often reveals an interesting history. I will present a few of those stories here and will continue this thread in future issues as time and space permit.
The R. W. Sears Watch Company
Born in Stewartville, Minnesota in 1863, Richard Warren Sears began his working life as a telegraph operator for the Minneapolis and St. Louis Railway in North Branch, Minnesota. From there, he trans- ferred to North Redwood Falls, Minnesota to become the station agent. It was at this station that he encountered a shipment of gold pocket watches that was being returned to a Chicago wholesaler after being refused by a Minnesota retailer. Sears, then 23 years old, made an arrangement with the wholesaler to sell the watches and to keep any proceeds above $12 per watch. He quickly sold the watches at $14 to other station agents along the line.
After continuing this practice for about six months, he had netted a sum of about $5,000. He quit his position with the railroad and formed the R. W. Sears Watch Company. He moved his company to Chicago in 1887 and hired a watch repairer named Alvah Curtis Roebuck to repair any watches that were being returned to the company. Roebuck was Sears' first employee and would eventually join with Sears to found Sears, Roebuck and Company in 1893.
The Rail Road Magnet watch shown on the previous page is one of a series of watches produced by the Illinois Watch Company with the R.W. Sears Watch Company name on the movement. It is an 18-size, model 2, grade 99, 11 jewel movement manufactured in 1886. These Sears watches typical- ly had blank dials. Other watches in this series are named Famous, Defiance, Timecard, Lawrence and Richard. A couple of these names are relatively scarce and collecting the entire set can be a challenge. Elgin watches with the R. W. Sears name on them have also been reported.
Sears continued to retail private label watches, made by several different manufacturers, for many years under the Sears, Roebuck and Company name. We will discuss Sears, Roebuck and Company further in a later installment.
J. Herbert Hall
Canadian born optometrist J. Herbert Hall started a small optical and jewelry store in Pasadena, California in 1899. The store was located at 43 E. Colorado St. and was a cozy 480 square feet. There he sold his first diamond ring for $22. Business took off after that as his store became known as the place to buy engagement rings, watches and china.
In 1914, Mr. Hall made a big bet on the wristwatch, stocking heavily and profiting greatly on the new trend. The store, also known as “The Tiffany of the West”, moved several times to larger and larger quarters. Mr. Hall passed away in 1951 at the age of 79, at which time his brother Walter took over. By 1960, they had moved to a new 15,000 square foot facility. Soon after Walter died in 1967, the firm was sold to Gordon Jewelers who expanded it to a 19 store chain. Today, a few stores remain in Arizona and Texas.
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| 18-size, grade 926, 17 jewel movement made by the Hamilton Watch Company for J. Herbert Hall’s Pasadena store |
The watch shown is an 18-size, grade 926, 17 jewel movement made by the Hamilton Watch Company and sent to the finishing department on October 11, 1907. It bears the ‘Hall’s Special’ designation in addition to the typical Hamilton 926 markings. It has been recased in an Illinois Watch Case Company rolled gold plate open face case. The dial is double sunk and bears the J. Herbert Hall name. I also have in my collection a 16-size Illinois with ‘J. Hebert Hall, Pasadena’ on the dial and ‘Hall Special’ on the movement.
Bailey, Banks and Biddle Co.
On September 20, 1832, Joseph Trowbridge Bailey and Andrew B. Kitchen entered into a partner- ship to form the Bailey & Kitchen Jewelry Company at 136 Chestnut Street in Philadelphia. This firm was dissolved in 1842 and a new partnership was formed under the name of Bailey and Company by Eli Westcott Bailey, Jeremiah Robbins and James Gallagher. The company moved to 819 Chestnut Street in 1859 and then to Chestnut and Twelfth in 1869. A third partnership was formed on March 1, 1878 by Joseph Trowbridge Bailey II, George Banks (of J. E. Caldwell) and Samuel Biddle (of Robbins, Clark & Biddle). The name of this new partnership was the name we know today – Bailey, Banks, and Biddle. The firm went public on March 2, 1894, adding a ‘Co.’ to the name. In 1904 they moved to a new showroom and eight floor factory at 1218-20-22 Chestnut Street.
The firm is notable for producing the current design of the Great Seal of the United States in 1904, as well as several military medals, including the Purple Heart and the Medal of Honor. They also designed class rings for West Point and Annapolis.
After expanding to over 100 stores in 31 states, Bailey, Banks and Biddle was acquired by Zale Corporation in 1961 and then by Finlay Enterprises in 2007. Finlay entered bankruptcy in 2009 and liquidated the remaining 67 Bailey, Banks and Biddle stores. In 2010, Bailey, Banks and Biddle reemerged as a private company, under the management of Smyth Jewelers, with nine stores and an online presence.
The watch shown is an American Waltham Watch Company 14-size model 1884 made in 1890. This 15 jewel, Hillside grade, non-magnetic movement bears the Bailey, Banks and Biddle name on both the dial and movement, as well as the American Standard designation on the movement. It is cased in an American Watch Company coin silver hunting case.
Truman Reeves
Truman Reeves was born in Chardon, Ohio in August of 1840. In 1858, he began a watchmaker’s apprenticeship at the firm of King and Brothers. When the Civil War began, he enlisted for the Union and attained the rank of lieutenant. He was wounded three times, the last resulting in the loss of his left arm at the battle of Cold Harbor. He was discharged in 1865 after spending seven months in the hospital.
Upon his return from the war, he served as postmaster, then as recorder for Ashtabula County, Ohio. In 1875 and in poor health, he came to California, settling in San Bernardino and reestablishing himself in the trade of watchmaker and jeweler. By the use of an ingenious device that he invented to replace his lost arm, he was said to be the only successful one armed watchmaker in the world.
During this time, he was active in Republican Party politics. In 1882, he was elected to the state legislature, representing San Bernardino County. In 1890, he was elected treasurer of San Bernardino and held that office for eight years. From 1898 to 1906, he served as California state treasurer. Truman Reeves died sometime between 1920 and 1930 according to census records. The movement shown is an 18-size, model 2, grade 100, 15 jewel movement produced by the Illinois Watch Company in 1886. It is uncased.